Chains are the foundation of any necklace, influencing its style, aesthetics, and drape, as well as how quickly it tangles, tarnishes, or breaks. The type of chain affects how comfortable the necklace is, how it catches the light, how it layers with other pieces, and even how much it costs, since some constructions use more metal than others.
Necklace chains typically fall into four core construction categories. Linked chains are joined one after another; woven and braided chains feature multiple strands twisted and interlocked into a single rope; flat and ribbon chains are made from links pieced together for a smooth drape; and stone-set chains have links that double as the setting.
So which necklace chain should you choose? This article breaks down 21 styles to help you find one that’s ideal for your jewelry look.
Linked chains
These chains consist of links joined together. They are the oldest and most common type of chain construction. When broken, links are easy to repair. Additionally, some allow you to move the clasp to different links, offering adjustability in necklace length.
The shape of the link gives the chain type its name, as follows:
1. Cable chain
Simple and classic, these chains feature oval or round links repeated in a loop. They are lightweight, versatile, and ideal for pendants.
2. Rolo chain
Round flattened links are connected in a circular pattern to create a structured aesthetic and a subtly segmented texture.
3. Curb chain
Links are twisted and flattened, so they lie flat against each other, creating a smooth interlocking chain that offers durability and a chunkier look.
4. Cuban link
A thicker, more pronounced version of the curb chain, this construction style is characterized by interlocking links that create a flat, uniform surface, ideal for bold, statement pieces.
5. Figaro chain
Features an alternative pattern of two or three circular links followed by an elongated link, providing a flat, polished style.
6. Mariner chain
Inspired by nautical anchor chains, links are oval-shaped with a bar running through them, offering a thick, sturdy texture.
7. Paperclip chain
So-named because the elongated, flattened links resemble paperclips, these chains provide a minimalist style that’s trending in modern jewelry.
8. Ball chain
Small spherical balls are connected by short wire segments to form a simple, flexible chain, often seen with dog tags or layered looks.
9. Box chain
Square or cube-shaped links connected at right angles to support a boxy, geometric style that’s structured, durable, and slightly more formal than the ball chain.
10. Valentino chain
Possibly rooted in Italian craftmanship, these chains are made of flat, wide links, often diamond- or lozenge-shaped, to create a bold, ribbon-like aesthetic. Chunky and eye-catching, they often support statement looks.
Woven and braided chains
Typically thicker than linked chains, these are made of multiple strands of links, twisted or interlaced to create a woven or braided appearance. They use more metal and tend to be the most expensive chain type per gram. Their bold look makes them ideal for integrating with thinner pieces when layering necklaces.
Common designs include:
11. Rope chain
Multiple links are twisted together in a spiral pattern to mimic the look of rope. Its ability to catch and reflect light makes it one of the most popular chain types.
12. Singapore chain
Despite the name, these chains are typically crafted in Italy rather than Singapore. They feature delicate diamond-cut links twisted together into a shimmering, rope-like pattern. As a lighter, thinner rope chain, it suits minimalist styles.
13. Wheat chain (Spiga)
The twisted, intertwined oval links resemble a stalk of wheat, earning the name wheat chain or Spiga (wheat stalk in Italian). A dense, textured construction and rounded profile hold shape well, making it a durable choice.
14. Byzantine chain
While its origin is unknown, it’s widely believed that the chain’s interlocking links were inspired by the armor worn in the Byzantine Empire. The intricate, ornate, and labor-intensive design provides a textured aesthetic, ideal for statement pieces.
15. Franco chain
Woven links are arranged in a diagonal, box-like pattern, creating a durable, faceted rope that’s resistant to kinking and a popular men’s jewelry choice.
Flat and ribbon chains
These chains feature flat metal segments laid edge to edge to create a smooth, ribbon-like appearance. The sleek aesthetic supports a great drape; however, the chain type is prone to kinks that impact durability. Nonetheless, they add a unique flavor when worn alone or featured in layered necklace trends.
16. Herringbone chain
Features flat, closely packed links laid at an angle to form a repeating V-pattern, much like the bones of a fish- hence the name. Though smooth to the touch, with a soft, fluid drape, these chains are more prone to kinking than sturdier styles.
17. Snake chain
Tightly connected round or square plates fit together to form a flexible tube with no visible, individual links. The sleek and minimalist design offers fluid movement and lies flat against the skin, making it ideal for pendants.
18. Omega chain
Curved, interlocking segments create a wide, rounded, ropey band with a highly reflective surface. Its glossy looks and substantial construction offer the ideal balance of high fashion and durability.
19. Mesh chain
Fine interwoven strands of metal comprise a flexible, fabric-like band that’s soft, pliable, textured, delicate, and shimmery. Hanging more like fabric than a traditional chain, mesh options combine thickness with elegance, for a touch of the unexpected.
20. Popcorn chain
Small, twisted, irregularly shaped links are woven together to form a bumpy surface that resembles popcorn kernels. The uneven, faceted texture catches the light well, creating a sparkling, dynamic look despite its simple, inexpensive construction.
Stone set chains
With this design, stones are integrated directly into the chain, making it part of the setting. Stones may alternate with links, or there may be one central pendant that’s featured as part of the chain. This chain style offsets more conventional styles when layering necklaces.
21. Tennis chain
The most popular variety of stone-set chains, tennis chains are continuous, flexible necklaces that feature a row of individually set gemstones rather than visible metal links. Each stone is secured by a prong, bezel, or channel setting to create a nearly uninterrupted line of sparkle that drapes smoothly around the neck.
3 PRONG GRADUATED GOLD TENNIS NECKLACE IN CZ
3 PRONG GRADUATED GOLD TENNIS NECKLACE IN CZ
$ 295
FAQs
What is the strongest type of necklace chain?
There is no single strongest type of necklace chain. A chain’s strength depends on the construction quality. However, links that are solid, thick, independently soldered, and made from a dependable metal tend to hold up well.
Why did my herringbone chain kink, and can it be fixed?
Herringbone chains are prone to kinking because their flat, tightly packed construction provides little flexibility. And once they bend, they are often permanently damaged. Minor kinks can sometimes be repaired by a professional jeweler, with pressing and rolling techniques, but the repaired section typically remains a weak point. Keep your chain in the best possible shape by storing it flat and removing it before sleeping and during rigorous physical activity.
Which necklace chains are best for pendants?
Chains with sturdy closed links, like cable, box and rope chains, tend to be best for pendants and work well at thinner gauges in this application. They distribute weight evenly and resist stretching.
What chain thickness should I choose?
Chain thickness is measured in millimeters and should align with the pendant weight. Thinner chains (around 1mm) are suited for small, lightweight pendants. A midrange thickness (2-3mm) is ideal for mid-weight pendants, while thicker chains (4mm+) are best for heavier pendants or as standalone statement pieces.
